Deaf Man Meets Blind Man on Scooter

Guest Post by Jen

Mike and I have been here for four weeks. There are six million people living in Changsha along with all their bicycles, push carts, scooters, cars, taxis and buses but I have never seen an accident until a few nights ago.

Mike and I do a lot of walking but usually not after dark. We decided to go for a stroll around campus earlier this week. We walked to the campus grocery store area where women gather every night to line dance, Chinese style. We decided to walk a little further and this was our conversation:

Jen - "It sure is dark on these streets, they could use some street lights."

Mike - "They probably don't have the electrical resources."

A few cars and mopeds without headlights have passed by us. A few pedestrians are out. There isn't a sidewalk and the road is narrow and sloped.

Jen - "I don't know, I don't feel like this is safe."

Mike - "It probably isn't."

I need to tell you that Mike has some hearing loss in his left ear and he is wearing a dark navy shirt with jean shorts. The only thing that would be more invisible is a black cat.

We both hear something coming up behind us. I turn my head and see a moped without headlights and move tight to the curb. I see Mike turn his head and assume he sees the same thing. What he sees is a car further up the road and decides to move over to the other side of the street. He steps out in front of the guy on the moped without lights. The guy "lays down" his bike in an attempt to save Mike from taking the brunt of the bike. Both men and moped are down on the pavement in the middle of the narrow street.

I hear, "I'm sorry. I'm sorry. Are you okay?"

I hear excited shouting in a language I desperately am trying to understand but I cannot. Both men get up. This biker guy could be angry. I'm scrolling my brain for something in Chinese to say.

"Dui bu qi! Dui bu qi! Dui bu qi!" comes out of my mouth.

Panic strikes my thoughts. "dui bu qi" or "bu ke qi," which is it?!? One means "I'm sorry" and the other means "don't be so polite."

Mike helps the guy pick up his bike and he flips open his seat and finds the contents intact. I've had a moment to take a deep breath and now say with confidence, "Dui bu qi! Dui bu qi!"

The electric scooter guy repeats, "Dui bu qi! Dui bu qi! Dui bu qi!"

We can't tell if he's mocking our attempts of a sincere apology or he's upset that he just picked off a foreigner in the middle of the street. There is no time for chit chat. There's a car waiting behind us and he has a take out order to deliver. He shakes Mike's hand and he is off on his scooter.

We decide our evening stroll is over and start heading home. We come around the corner and our biker friend is collecting money for his delivery. We're not sure what the protocol for this kind of incident in this culture is and there is a huge language barrier. We spin on a kuai and head the other direction so both parties can save face (and pretend it didn't happen).

I've now witnessed my first accident. No one was hurt. We now have a better understanding and appreciation for all the unnecessary and continual honking and beeping that goes on every minute, everywhere.

Oh, and it's okay to laugh. I haven't stopped laughing since it happened. Mike's a little more sensitive about it but he's laughing too.

We do have a very wise tip to pass on in case you are ever in China and need to cross the street:

Strategically place yourself alongside of or in the middle of veteran Chinese street crossers.

We've included this photo which demonstrates the technique.

Other helpful tips:

- Don't let the tiny women with three inch spiked heels fool you. They can move.

- It is okay to slowly make your way out into oncoming car traffic but NEVER take on a bus.

- Don't panic if you're temporarily stranded in the middle of the road and cars are zipping by in both directions around you. This is common.

- Don't run. This is similar to the idea that you never take off running from a mean looking dog staring you down.

- Jen